Polar bivouac in Ammassalik

Almost unknown a hundred years ago, the East Coast of Greenland remains the most authentic and majestic region We are in the footsteps of the famous Pourquoi Pas? ship of Commander Jean-Baptiste Charcot who left in 1934, with his crew, to settle Paul-Émile Victor in Ammassalik. The perception of time is no longer the same in the immensity of the polar desert. Accompanied by our three Greenlandic guides, we begin to understand their philosophy: immaqa –

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Testing new camp gear was part of the mission. I was especially satisfied with the Sea to Summit inner thermal layer and Rab’s fleece boots. The Exped mattress, however, was too thin for true Arctic comfort—something to improve before future trips. On the food front, I lucked out with the dehydrated Pasta Bolognese (that signature orange Expedition Foods pack), but not everything passed the taste test. The tartiflette Savoyarde? Definitely not a repeat. Breakfast options were another low point—better planning needed there.

My Stanley Classic thermos performed flawlessly, even in sub-zero temperatures. It’s actually the same model used by Inuit hunters—but its 1.5-liter capacity wasn't enough. A 2-liter backup is now on my packing list.